Sunscreen in Alaska? Bears, Bushwhacks, and Blue Skies on the Way to Juneau
This week we made our way from Sitka back to Juneau, and Alaska decided to show off.
We had absolutely incredible weather all week long. In fact, it was so warm that we may have been flirting with record temperatures for this time of year. Needless to say, sunscreen became one of the most important pieces of expedition gear onboard. Who knew that one of the biggest hazards in Alaska would be sunburn?
For me, this was a very land-heavy week, which meant lots of hiking, exploring, and introducing guests to the finer art of bushwhacking.
The week started at the Magouns, where I led the first bushwhack of the voyage. As usual, the unofficial directive from our Expedition Leader was to "whack them out" so guests would self-select out of future bushwhacks. I'm happy to report that while I didn't rip anyone's pants this week, I think I still accomplished the mission. The vegetation was thick, the terrain was classic Southeast Alaska, and everyone earned their adventure stories.
Later in the week, we visited North Hoonah Sound, where I got to lead both a skiff tour and an eco-meander excursion up to a spectacular waterfall. These outings are always some of my favorites because they allow guests who may not be comfortable on long hikes to experience places that would otherwise be difficult to access. Getting people into these incredible corners of Alaska without requiring a strenuous trek is always rewarding. As an added bonus, a group of Dall's porpoises stopped by to say hello during one of the skiff tours, making an already great day even better.
Tuesday brought us to Lake Eva, a location that absolutely lived up to its reputation as bear country. We had a bear hanging out near the river for most of the day. It seemed completely unconcerned with our presence as we dropped guests off for trail walks, but we still kept a close eye on it from across the river just in case it decided to change its plans.
I led two walks that day, and one group made it all the way to the lake. The only downside? We took a little longer than expected and ended up getting back to the boat about an hour late. I had approval to extend the trip, but I still don't enjoy being the person returning after everyone else is already aboard. The lake was worth it, though.
From there we headed to Pavlof Harbor, where the bears continued to steal the show. A mother bear and her three cubs spent much of the afternoon on a beach right next to the ship, providing some incredible viewing opportunities during our skiff rides.
The low tide that morning also gave us the chance to do one of my favorite activities: "dry snorkeling." From the kayaks, we explored the exposed intertidal zone and checked out all kinds of marine life without ever getting wet. Sea stars, plumose anemones, and countless other creatures were on full display. It's amazing how much life appears when the tide pulls back.
The weather finally reminded us we were in Southeast Alaska during our visit to Inian Islands and George Island, where we encountered a bit more rain than we'd seen all week. Even so, wildlife continued to cooperate. We enjoyed some fantastic Steller sea lion activity and even spotted a few puffins around George Island.
I also gave my Sea Slang presentation, which experienced a brief interruption courtesy of a whale. Unfortunately, it was being particularly squirrely, constantly changing directions and refusing to settle down. After a short burst of excitement, most guests returned inside, and I was able to continue the presentation. The whale clearly didn't get the memo about waiting until after the program.
Our final stop before returning to Juneau was Glacier Bay National Park, and once again it delivered. Just like the previous few weeks, we were treated to beautiful weather in the bay. Even better, the ice was out in force. Kayaking among the ice was absolutely incredible. Guests loved every minute of it, and honestly, so did I. It's one of those experiences that never gets old, no matter how many times you do it.
By the time we arrived back in Juneau, it felt like we'd packed an entire season's worth of sunshine, wildlife, and adventure into a single week. Bears, porpoises, sea lions, puffins, glaciers, waterfalls, and enough sunscreen to stock a small pharmacy—it was hard to ask for much more.
Now it's time to turn the ship around and see what surprises next week has in store.
