From Bushwhacks to Big Ships: Closing One Chapter, Starting the Next

Every season has those weeks that feel like a perfect ending, and this was one of them. My final Juneau-to-Sitka run of the rotation was packed in glaciers, bears, bushwhacks, and a few brand-new places before it was time to trade a small expedition ship for a larger vessel and a whole new adventure.

As always, my week began near Lamplugh Glacier, and it never disappoints. There’s something incredibly peaceful about weaving a kayak through floating glacial ice with towering walls of blue ice just beyond your paddle. No matter how many times I visit, it never feels routine. Every glacier has its own personality, and every day on the water is a little different.

From there, we headed to Lisianski Inlet, one of my favorite stops near the small town of Pelican. I visited several times last season, but this was my first trip there this year with this boat. It certainly delivered. During my entire operation, a coastal brown bear sow and her cub spent their morning feeding and wandering across the bay, completely unbothered by our presence. Guests had incredible views, and they stuck around long enough for the afternoon skiff tours to enjoy them as well. Needless to say, everyone got their Alaska bear fix.

Thankfully, because our next stop at Pavlof Harbor was a bit quieter on the wildlife front. With the salmon still not yet making their way upstream, bear activity is still ramping up, so seeing fewer bears there wasn't much of a surprise. That's Alaska for you—you never know exactly what each stop will bring.

One of the biggest highlights of the week came at Takatz Bay, where we embarked on one of my favorite bushwhacks of the season. Instead of taking the easy route, we pointed ourselves straight up the mountainside, climbing through thick forest until we reached a beautiful muskeg—Alaska's version of a swamp, although somehow much prettier than that description suggests. From there, we worked our way back down through a rocky ravine before being picked up directly from the shoreline. It was one of those hikes where everyone finished a little muddy, a little tired, and wearing huge smiles. We may have run a few minutes behind schedule, but our Expedition Leader didn't seem to mind—and, importantly, we weren't even the last group back!

The final few expedition stops took us somewhere completely new for me: Emmons, Ushk Bay, and Kalinin Bay. Exploring new locations is one of the best parts of guiding. Even after several seasons in Alaska, there are still quiet corners and hidden coves waiting to be discovered. Each offered something unique and made for a wonderful way to wrap up my time aboard.

After saying goodbye to guests in Sitka, I hopped on a quick flight back to Juneau for a few days off before starting my next assignment. The first day was exactly what every guide dreams about after weeks onboard: sleeping in and catching up on paperwork. Glamorous, I know.

The following days, however, were all about being a tourist in my own workplace.

First up was a flightseeing tour over the Juneau Icefield, and I honestly can't recommend it enough. I've spent plenty of time exploring glaciers from sea level, but seeing them from the air completely changes your perspective. The sheer scale of the icefields is almost impossible to appreciate until you're flying above them. It's one of those experiences that makes you realize just how small you are in the best possible way.

Next came a whale watching tour combined with a visit to Mendenhall Glacier. Somehow, despite spending multiple seasons working in Alaska, I had never actually visited Mendenhall. It was definitely worth the wait. Yes, there were plenty of visitors—as you'd expect for one of Alaska's most accessible glaciers—but the setting was stunning. The glacier spills into a beautiful lake fed by powerful waterfalls carrying snowmelt down from the surrounding mountains. It's easy to see why it's one of Alaska's most iconic destinations.

Then it was time for another change of scenery.

I flew north to Anchorage to join a much larger cruise ship for the next part of the season. It's certainly a different style of guiding. There are fewer off-the-beaten-path adventures and more visits to Alaska's port towns, but that's part of what makes this job so enjoyable—every contract offers something new.

So far we've visited places like Haines, Hoonah, Klawock, and Valdez, each with its own personality. One highlight was exploring the museum in Valdez, where I spent time learning more about the Exxon Valdez oil spill. Standing in the region where such a significant environmental event occurred added an entirely different perspective to a story I'd previously only known from textbooks.

The guests aboard the larger ship have been just as friendly and appreciative as those on the expedition vessels—just with a slightly different travel style. Let's just say rainy weather doesn't tend to inspire quite the same enthusiasm for wandering around town. Personally, after a few Alaska seasons, I've accepted that if you wait for sunshine, you'll spend a lot of time waiting.

The ship itself has been fantastic, the crew has been incredibly welcoming, and it's been refreshing to experience another side of Alaska cruising. While I already miss bushwhacks, muddy boots, and Zodiac rides, I'm enjoying the opportunity to explore new ports, meet new people, and continue discovering just how much this incredible state has to offer.

Here's to the next adventure—and whatever Alaska decides to throw my way next.