Whale Traffic Jams, Sea Lions, and Polar Plunges
Another week in Southeast Alaska is in the books, and this one had a little bit of everything: calm seas, glacier plunges, humpback whales, muddy boots, and just enough rain to remind us we’re still in Alaska.
We kicked things off at Inian Islands and George Island, which felt like starting the week on home turf. It’s always nice going somewhere you know well enough to already have a mental map of the tides, wildlife hotspots, and where guests are most likely to ask, “Wait…how do sea lions sleep?” The water around the Inians was surprisingly calm for that area, and even the Steller sea lions seemed unusually relaxed. Not many were splashing around or launching themselves dramatically through the swells, which made for a slightly quieter skiff tour than usual—but honestly, guests still loved every minute of it. Turns out giant sea lions lounging around like retired fishermen are still pretty entertaining.
The repo drive over to George Island was a little bumpy, but that just made it more fun. Add in some light rain and suddenly you feel like you’re starring in your own low-budget Alaska documentary. The short hike up to the old gun battery is always a good one. Sure, it’s well maintained and not exactly an epic expedition, but the combination of history, ocean views, and moss-covered forest never gets old.
From there we headed into Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve and spent time near Lamplugh Glacier. We ran a beautiful skiff tour through the area, and of course the Polar Plunge stole the show. There’s just something universally entertaining about watching people voluntarily jump into freezing glacial water while everyone else cheers from a warm deck with hot chocolate in hand. A true expedition tradition.
Cruising out of Glacier Bay turned into a full wildlife parade. We spotted bears along the shoreline, mountain goats high on the cliffs, and even a couple of whales that we unfortunately couldn’t stop to watch because of Glacier Bay wildlife regulations. Nothing says “professional naturalist” quite like enthusiastically pointing out whales while simultaneously explaining why you cannot actually go look at them.
Our next stop was Pavlof Harbor. Early season means fewer bears, which also means we actually get to stretch our legs on shore without immediately turning into a very alert walking buffet. We did a great shore walk out to the waterfall and fish ladder, enjoying one of those peaceful Southeast Alaska mornings where everything smells like wet forest and salmon history.
Wednesday brought a new location for many of us: Corner Bay, just across from Tenakee Springs. Because of the nearby logging roads and signs of human activity, it didn’t quite have that “middle of nowhere” wilderness feel, but it made for an easy and accessible walk. The real highlight came offshore, where three humpback whales spent most of the afternoon hanging around outside the bay. Some of the kayak groups got incredible looks at them, and even our skiff tours lucked out with close views. It’s hard to compete with humpbacks casually surfacing beside your boat all afternoon.
Then came Lake Eva, which is always a fun early-season stop before peak bear traffic arrives. That said, we had reports of deer carcasses in the area, which meant everyone was a little extra alert. “Heads on a swivel” became the unofficial phrase of the day. Only one bear was spotted, and credit goes entirely to Duge and the crew for tracking it down like true professionals while the rest of us were staring suspiciously into the woods pretending we also knew what we were looking for.
Our final stop of the week was the Magoun Islands near Sitka. The weather cooperated enough for us to get great views of Mount Edgecumbe, which always adds a little extra drama to the scenery. I led a double Eco Meander and spent most of the morning wandering through the intertidal zone turning over rocks, looking at barnacles, and generally embracing my inner tidepool nerd. Honestly, a fantastic way to spend a morning. We wrapped up with a skiff ride in the afternoon that was quieter wildlife-wise, but really helpful for getting more familiar with the area before returning there later this season with kayaks.
Saturday’s turnaround day in Sitka was noticeably smoother than the previous week. The crew is finally settling into a rhythm, and even though we were operating out of Sitka instead of Juneau, everything flowed much more smoothly. It was also fun being back in Sitka for the first time in three years and revisiting some old favorite spots. Still just as charming as I remembered.
Now we’re loading up another full boat and heading back out for another week in Southeast Alaska. Here’s hoping this next group is just a little more adventurous than the last—because the guides are definitely ready for it.
